stories 16


Food sample

A delicious stillness

Although pictures of dishes or the actual dishes put out as samples are often seen at restaurants around the world, it is rare to see restaurants promoting their menus by lining up modeled dishes that look identical to the real thing at their storefronts. This food sample culture emerged quietly from Japan and has evolved and grown on its own. Food samples, which are gradually gaining a small degree of acceptance in Asia, have hardly, if at all, spread to any European countries. While the reason for this remains unclear, the popularity of food samples in Japan may be down to the Japanese nature of interpreting information visually, as suggested by the pictograms and emojis that similarly originated in Japan. The whys and wherefores surrounding food samples may be shrouded in mystery, but if we were to probe further into their history, we would reveal a sound practicality hidden beneath their showy, unique appearance.

The predecessors of food sample

Food samples were first created from the end of the Taisho period(20c) to the early Showa period (20c) and were called ryori mokei (food models) at the time. It is believed that these food models became widely recognized after they were displayed at a temporary store of the Nihonbashi central branch of Shirokiya, a department store that opened on November 1, 1923. To improve efficiency, an ordering method was introduced in which samples of the dishes were put out and diners would purchase the corresponding meal ticket. As a result, diners’ turnover improved, and sales increased by four times. Since then, meal tickets and food models have been used widely at restaurants and eateries in Japan.

  • Exterior of Shirokiya during the early Showa period (20c)
  • Display of food models at a department store in Tokyo, after the Great Kanto Earthquake
  • Exterior of Shirokiya during the early Showa period (20c)

  • Display of food models at a department store in Tokyo, after the Great Kanto Earthquake|
    The expression “food samples” was not used then.
    Documents described this as a “display shelf for samples of food.”

Changes in expression

Food models were poorer replicas of the original than the food samples of the modern day. Around this time, a certain youth happened to see some food models. This young man had enjoyed working and playing with wax as a child, so after repeated mold-making and testing with materials such as wax and kanten (Japanese gelatin), he successfully produced elaborate food models that recreated even the finest creases. This method later became the mainstream, greatly elevating the quality of food samples. While the basic material used had been wax, it was a fragile material that melted under lighting heat. For this reason, sturdy plastic resin has been used in recent years, and the breadth of expression has expanded further.

  • Kinen Omu (Commemorative Omelet) produced by Takizo Iwasaki
  • Food samples made from plastic resin
  • Kinen Omu (Commemorative Omelet) produced by Takizo Iwasaki|
    Iwasaki launched Japan’s first commercialization of the production and sale of food samples in Japan with this modelled omelet. The name “food sample” was designated at this time.

  • Food samples made from plastic resin|
    The delicate processing brings out the immediacy of the moment when the fork is lifted.

Processes

Basic food sample manufacturing is divided into four processes: mold-making, casting, coloring, and presentation. Most of these are manual processes, deriving from the fact that food samples are mainly made-to-order. For example, even for the same dish of curry and rice, the volume of rice and curry, colors, and ingredients vary from store to store. To reproduce the individual characteristics of each menu accurately, it is impossible to apply the same molds and materials to different restaurants, and difficult to mass produce the food samples. Hence, most of the produces are carried out manually.

  • Mold-making
  • Casting
  • Coloring
  • Presentation

Display

Western food culture gained popularity in Japan after the war, and food samples became more than mere samples aimed at enhancing ordering efficiency. They also took on the role of promoting products to consumers. Among kissaten (coffee shops) where sample display rates were particularly high, many stores used food samples to enhance the visual appeal of bright and trendy Western dishes of foreign origin. Displaying food samples gradually became a common trend, and various creative efforts were employed in its styling.

  • ディスプレイ
  • Food samples on display at a street corner

Surprising food sample creations

In recent years, food samples have also entered the realm of art and sundry goods. There is a myriad range of expressions, including samples that represent a dynamic moment in the cooking process, and samples that create a situation that would not be possible in real life. Food samples that look identical to the real thing are used to create surreal scenes like photo collages. They have moved beyond the framework of menu promotion that has continued since the Taisho period (20c), maybe even taking a step forward as a new form of Japanese artistic expression.

  • Unique food samples|Iwasaki Co., Ltd
  • Dorayaki Ippai (Lots of bean jam pancakes)|Takao Sakai
  • Publicity for regional specialty products by making the luggage conveyor belt at the airport look like sushi conveyor belts at “rotation sushi” restaurants|Tuna sushi / Prawn sushi (Oita Airport)
  • Honki de chahan tukuru dokkiri wwwwww (Prank cooking fried rice lololol)|Mizutamari Bond
  • Left: USB flash drive shaped like salmon roe gunkan (“battleship” sushi roll), Right: Tiepin shaped like grilled fish|Morino Sample
  • Bacon and Egg iPhone case|Maizuru
  • Unique food samples|Iwasaki Co., Ltd.
    Iwasaki is the largest company in Japan’s food sample industry. These are some examples of the outstanding works from an in-house competition that the company has held for more than 45 years for the purpose of upgrading skills and techniques.

  • Dorayaki Ippai (Lots of bean jam pancakes)|Takao Sakai

  • Publicity for regional specialty products by making the luggage conveyor belt at the airport look like sushi conveyor belts at “rotation sushi” restaurants|Tuna sushi / Prawn sushi (Oita Airport)
    The publicity strategy of recreating the sushi conveyor belt, as shown in the picture, is gradually spreading to airports across Japan.

  • Honki de chahan tukuru dokkiri wwwwww (Prank cooking fried rice lololol)|Mizutamari Bond
    A video thumbnail using a giant-sized fried rice food sample, created by video creators Mizutamari Bond. The impactful video was viewed by many foreigners and published on the web version of TIME as “the wok guy.” The video has received 12 million views (as of July 2021).

  • Left: USB flash drive shaped like salmon roe gunkan (“battleship” sushi roll), Right: Tiepin shaped like grilled fish|Morino Sample

  • Bacon and Egg iPhone case|Maizuru